Spit Roasted Pigeon with Pancetta Recipe

"Your house smells like campfire pork fat. I like it!" my dear friend Theresa recently told Jason and I. Well it's one of the best compliments you can hear as a Chef! It could be we are always grilling and cooking in the kitchen fireplace. The spit roaster (girarrosto) is a quintessential cooking tool in an Italian farmhouse - especially since in the winter there is a fire always going in the kitchen. Its as simple as pulling out some hot coals and laying them just in front of the meat you will spit roast. Here we spit-roast quail, pigeon, all types of wild small birds, chickens, sausage, thick slices of pancetta and even eel.  The best part of how we spit roast comes at the end... with a fiery blaze of melting pork fat!!

Before

After

Spit Roasted Pigeon with Pancetta Recipe

Piccione al girarrosto

serves 4

4 small pigeons cleaned (you can use any small bird you like, up to a chicken it will just take longer to cook.)
4 thick slices of pancetta
juniper berries
sage
garlic
salt and pepper
olive oil
nice piece of lardo or pork fat wrapped in butcher paper


Start a fire.
Clean and dry the pigeons. Sprinkle salt and pepper inside the cavity along with a few torn up sage leaves, a pinch of rough chopped garlic and 1 or 2 juniper berries. Drizzle a tiny bit of olive oil over the birds, sprinkle with salt & pepper and rub it all in.

Now prepare the spit.

Using a single skewer spit roaster:
Pierce the pigeon through the rib cage, underneath the breast. Do a bird, piece of pancetta, bird, pancetta, etc. If you like you can also put a piece of bread in between that will soak up all the delicious fat.

If you have a double spit roaster (with two levels) you can have some real fun! Put sausages on the top level and the birds underneath so as the sausages cook the fat drips below, basting the birds.

To cook:
Make a line of coals from the fire about 6 - 8 inches (about 20 cm) away from the birds, in front of the spit roaster. Plug it & let it go!

It takes about an hour so don’t rush it. If the birds start to color right away there is too much heat, pull it back.  After about 50 minutes to 1:10 depending on the size of your birds they should be done. You can check this by gently pulling on one of the legs - if it falls away, you’re good.

Now for the fun part! 
Crisping up the skin: With you pork fat wrapped in butcher paper like a nice package, spear a long bbq fork through the center and light it in the fire.  As the paper burns away, the fat will begin to melt and drip down (staying slightly ignited). Drizzle the melting fat over the birds at the very end to crisp up the skins. (Turn out the light and it looks pretty cool!)

Take the birds off the fire and allow to rest for a few minutes - then enjoy!
Serve with roasted potatoes with rosemary.

Braised Rabbit (or Chicken) in the "Style of the Hunter" - Coniglio alla Cacciatore

photo: Rachel Eats

Braised Rabbit (or Chicken) in the Style of the Hunter

 Rabbit (or coniglio) can be found in butchers & markets throughout Italy. Italians find it savory, lean, inexpensive and perfect for cooking alla cacciatora (in the style of the hunter).  Rabbit is a nice, light white meat - in this recipe we braise it in diluted vinegar (acid) which breaks down the meat - leaving it succulent and falling off the bone.  I'm not sure why rabbit gets such a bad rap -maybe too many people associate it with "Bugs Bunny" or the "Easter Rabbit" or had one as a pet (so did I) and there you go...no more tasty rabbit on the menu. Give it a try, it's absolutely delicious especially with a side of roasted potatoes with rosemary!!

Braised Rabbit (or Chicken) in the Style of the Hunter
Coniglio alla Cacciatore

Serves 4

1 rabbit or chicken cut in pieces (chicken will take longer to cook)
4-5 cloves of garlic whole, peeled
2-4  anchovy fillets
spoonful of capers
small handful of sage
olive oil
white wine vinegar
water
salt/ pepper
pinch of chopped parsley


If using rabbit soak in cold water for a couple of hours to extract any blood. Change the water once during this process.

Clean and pat dry rabbit/chicken and then season with salt and pepper.  In a heavy bottom pan over medium high heat sear rabbit/chicken in a few glugs of olive oil.   About halfway through the searing process once you have turned all the meat over, add in your sage and garlic.   

In a glass combine 1/2 cup white wine vinegar with 1/2 cup water.  Once the meat is seared, turn down the heat and add vinegar mixture to the pan.  Cover the pan with a parchment paper lid (allowing some of the liquid to cook out) and braise slowly, 30 to 50 minutes depending on the size of rabbit/chicken pieces.  Give everything a turn every 10 minutes or so.  Be sure to control pan heat and continue to add vinegar and water in a 1:1 ratio as needed to keep the pan from going dry.  

Once meat is tender transfer to a warm serving plate.  Remove garlic cloves from the pan  and discard (or just mush them into the pan sauce if you like.) Chop anchovy and dissolve into the pan and finally in go the capers and parsley. Check Seasoning and pour over warm meat with a drizzle of good olive oil.  Serve.

(Pairs perfectly with roasted potatoes)

La Moretta - Caffè with Liquor & a Twist of Lemon

La Moretta, Moretta Fanese

Moretta Fanese or better known in these parts as "la moretta" is a local specialty of caffè spiked with liquor (a mix of anise, rum and brandy), sweetened with sugar and the signature twist of lemon! Moretta Fanese was born in the seaside village of Fano. Sailors and fishermen from the Marche port may have created the drink, to keep warm and leave for the Sea invigorated!

It is strong and sweet, and usually drunk after meals as a digestive.  With a belly full of grilled fish, 'una moretta' is just what the doctor ordered! (Literally as well - because Dr. Gaggi LOVES a good moretta Fanese!

La Moretta, Moretta Fanese

(Recipes vary from house to house)

fresh brewed strong coffee - preferably caffè (espresso)
twist of lemon (lemon rind)
spoonful of sugar (optional)
equal parts: rum, anise (Varnelli or Sambucca) and brandy

If you have a steamer: Heat rum, anise and brandy slowly over low heat. Then add the sugar and lemon rind, mix until it's dissolved.

(OR Make a 'poor man's double boiler. Mix the liquor together into a heat safe glass/bottle. Place in double boiler and warm over low heat.  Place the lemon zest and sugar in a glass and then pour warm booze over top.)

Pour into a small glass or espresso cup (make sure the lemon rind is in the cup too). Then gently pour the fresh espresso into the glass. Locals like to keep the layers (liquor, coffee, coffee froth) intact - so don't mix it up - just drink.

Grilled Peppers Stuffed with Tuna

Simply delicious. Ever since visiting a family-run seafood restaurant along the Adriatic we have been recreating this simple dish of roasted peppers and tuna.  Roasting gorgeous orange, yellow and red peppers over the grill and stuffing them with tuna, capers and herbs makes for a healthy flavorful appetizer/antipasti -the perfect way to start your summer dinner (especially if you already have the bbq fired up!)

Roasted Peppers Stuffed with Tuna
 Peperoni alla grilglia ripieni di tonno

Serves 6

4 Peppers (any color)
250 gram of highest quality of tuna you can find (in oil or water), drained
spoonful of capers, chopped
oregano, or any fresh herb of your choice (basil, marjoram, etc.)
salt & pepper (or red chili flakes)
red wine vinegar
extra virgin olive oil
clove of garlic

Start by charring the outside of your peppers - either on the stove or over the grill - until the outside is completely blackened. Place in a bowl and cover with plastic, allow to cool.

When you can handle the peppers, remove the skin (should come right off) and remove the seeds. Slice the peppers into 3 cm strips.

To prepare the tuna filling, combine the tuna, capers, salt & pepper, a few drops of olive oil and vinegar.

At one end of the peppers add a spoonful of the tuna mix and roll the pepper around the tuna. Place in the dish, once the dish is full season with salt & cracked pepper.  Now make the dressing.

Two spoonfuls of red wine vinegar with six spoonfuls of olive oil, 1/2-1 clove of finely chopped garlic and small handful of chopped herbs. Mix it up and pour over the peppers in the dish. Allow to sit for at least 20 minutes before serving to let the peppers soak up the dressing.

Note: You can add any thing you like to the tuna mix: spring onions, sun dried tomatoes, olives, etc.

Prugnolino - Italian Sloe Gin

Our woods are filled with plump deep blue sloe (blackthorn) berries, prugnole (or in local dialect brugnole). With stained sticky fingers, I gather them just in the nick of time during the late fall, waiting for them to be soft but not mealy and more importantly before the other booze makers can get to them! 

That's right, just like local ladies have done for centuries I collect kilos of prugnole to be soaked in pure alcohol and made into a delicious port-like after dinner drink (digestivo) known as a prugnolino.  I am very proud of my boozing because I can't cook, this is what I proudly contribute to the table. This is also an honored tradition to continue making homemade liquors and brings with it serious bragging rights when done right. The secret to creating a nice smooth flavor is time - the longer it sits, the better it tastes.

 

Sloe Gin of Italy

Brugnolino - recipe from the Candigliano Valley

1 kilo of sloe
1 litre of pure grain alcohol (or gin)
1/2 liter of white wine
250 grams sugar

Wash the sloe well.
Mix together & let sit 30-40 days in air tight jar - mixing every so often.
Filter well with cheese cloth.
Let sit in cool dark place - Wait for another year to start serving,  however some start drinking immediately. I think over time the flavors round out so nicely.

Spiced Sloe

500 grams sloe
250 grams sugar
750 ml pure grain alcohol (or gin)
cinnamon stick
4 cloves
oranges zest

Clean sole berries/fruit well. Using a tooth pick, prick the sloe here & there so the alcohol can really penetrate the fruit.
Mix together all the ingredients in an large air tight jar.
Let sit in a cool dark place for 3-6 months, mixing every so often.
Filter well with cheese cloth into serving bottle.

Sauteed Green Beans with Toasted Almonds

Green beans, runner beans, french beans or fagiolini - whatever you call them they are in-season on our farm! If you read our last post you know we are eating them damn'near daily! Here we pick them while they are still young & tender - not the huge knobby tough beans I was used to before. And don't even get me started on the difference between fresh picked beans and the soggy, salty ones I was force-fed to eat as a kid...from a can!! (No wonder so many kids grow up hating vegetables). Now I eat them right off the vine!

This is a delicious, fast, simple and healthy way to devour these fantastic green veggies. The crunchy, toasty almonds pair so nicely with the al'dente green beans, just begging you to go back for seconds - guilt free!

Sauteed Green Beans with Toasted Almonds

serves 4

4 handfuls of green beans, trimmed and cut in half
2 cloves of garlic
pinch of chili flakes
100 gram toasted almonds, chopped
olive oil
salt & pepper
Blanch your beans in boiling salted water for 3-8 minutes depending on the size and thickness of beans or until half cooked.

Drain and rinse under cold water.

In a frying pan slowly heat 3-4 glugs of olive oil along with the garlic and chili flakes.

When the garlic is nicely browned turn the heat up and add in the green beans and saute for a minute or two.
Add quarter cup of water. Allow the water to evaporate fully cooking the beans for about 3 minutes.

Season with salt & pepper.

Toss in toasted almonds.
(If you like you can add in a squeeze of lemon.)

Serve.
(Leftovers: also delicious served cold.)

Green Bean Lover? Here's another great recipe:

Green Beans with Cherry Tomatoes & Balsamic

Fennel & Blood Orange Salad

Fennel - what is it? A big onion? A bulb? Is it even edible? YES and how delicious it is!

The secret is to know how to use it & what to pair it with.
Fennel can be a bit tough & fibrous with an anise flavor. It is also light, crunchy & refreshing found in many Mediterranean recipes. We not only grow our own big bulbs of fennel but another variety of fennel grows wild along our road - the more leafy/flowery type to used as an aromatic.

Here is one of my favorite winter/early spring recipes from Jason below. Other ways to use/eat fennel: roasted, braised in white wine and the most simplistic - young fennel can be cut into chunks & dipped into olive oil & salt.

Fennel & Blood Orange Salad

1 bulb of fennel, cut in 1/2 and remove core
2-3 blood oranges
salt & pepper
3 glugs of extra virgin olive oil

Slice fennel as this as possible (use a food slicer or mandolin if available).
Peel & supreme the oranges. Save the extra pulp & squeeze the remaining juice into the bowl.
Mix sliced fennel, juice from the pulp & oranges - season with salt & pepper.
Drizzle with olive oil & toss.
Let stand for 10 minutes then serve.

Fried Anchovies with Sage

If you have not tried anchovies before - you must try them now! Get over any weird apprehensions or that its just bait or a punchline for a joke about pizza ("extra anchovies")! These little suckers are delicious & actually good for you! Baked, fried & grilled - they are ohh so good and worth a try. If your not up to it, then pass me your plate because I love'em!
Here is my favorite - Fried Anchovies - the recipe below adds a sage leave to each piece of fish as well for an extra burst of flavor & color.

Fried Anchovies with Sage
Acciughe fritte con Salvia

1lb of anchovies cleaned, spine removed
sage leaves (optional - if you are not a fan of sage just omit)

batter
1 cup of flour
1 egg
1 teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon of baking powder
seltzer water

vegetable oil for frying

In a bowl combine flour, eggs, salt & baking powder. Slowly add in seltzer water & mix until forms a thin batter. Cover with plastic & set in the fridge for at least an hour.

Heat oil in a pot to 350 degree.

Remove batter from fridge and mix once or twice (batter will have separated).

Take a sage leaf & anchovy put them together & dip into the batter - allowing access batter to drip off.

Fry 20 seconds a side until golden brown.

Remove from oil & drain on a paper towel.

Sprinkle with salt & serve immediately.

Pairs great with prosecco or white wine.